$$PLAIN_TEXT_PREVIEW$$

A tribute to Robert…

Photo by @engelengele

 

Miscellany | 20.09.25

(Or; The threshold after which criticism becomes less than worthless.)

WATCH OUR PODCAST’S LATEST EPISODE.

Throughout many previous letters and talks, we’ve litigated the many facets of the burdens that fall on the fashion industry.

Its overproduction, its overstretching of global supply lines, its literally mountainous trash heaps, and its increasing uniformity as a race for cost cutting has it pruning more and more of its historically unique practices from itself.

Since the deployment of the first machine mills in Liverpool, Fashion is going on two hundred years of progression towards this exact kind of modern Industrialism.

In our current environment, where it seems like everything is down and out, it is easy — even morbidly satisfying — to get stuck in the weeds unearthing every ugly, world-ending problem we’ve made for ourselves. To revel in naming every grotesque tragedy our industry created for no purpose other than to name them.

Criticism is the cause that informs change. Without action, without starting the work of properly building the solutions or alternatives necessary, it becomes a pointless pass time.

Photo by Will Freeman of the work of Adriana Meunie

 

XTANT is now preparing for its seventh edition. And, its while it has grown tremendously over the years, the road before it is still long.

As the yearly process behind the event’s ground floor becomes second nature, and the workshops and leadership program grow and morph in scale, we can focus on not just keeping our community going. But growing it.

Conjoining artists of different disciplines, letting them influence and impact each other; most importantly, curating a space where people (visitors, consumers, whatever you’d call them) are exposed to works and practices they’d have otherwise never sought out.

The health of an artistic field lives or dies by its capacity to bring in a constant influx of new people. Their ideas, perspectives, capacity for work; they pull others in, innovate, and bring that art to others in their orbit.

It can sound naive to believe that you can build a model for fashion that people would voluntarily choose over our current one. The crushing feeling that the industry is too large, too effective at producing tons and producing cheap, for any alternative to be viable.

Basically, there is no precedent.

…

(There is. That was a framing device.)

“XTANT LEADERSHIP PROGRAM” Photo by @engelengele

 

“The first planning meeting for the embryonic Sundance Institute […]” circa 1980

 

2. The part where we actually talk about Sundance

Almost fifty years ago, off the back of one of the most consequential decades in modern US history, the late great Robert Redford put together a — then small — film festival separated from Hollywood by the breadth of the Rocky mountains.

The festival, dedicated to showcasing and fomenting independent film media almost immediately tripped through several problems into an early death.

Initially self funded, and within a year already entering the world of patronage and apprenticeship. Plucking artists and directors to develop their projects into reality.

Film was then, and in a lesser part is now, an industry with a tendency to monopolize. From early film equipment patents, unfair or illegal practices by which certain cinemas would gain exclusive rights to movies (Something ‘wholly unthinkable’ today.), to the virtual monopoly that L.A. would come to hold over almost every performing art in the coming century.

 

Despite the fact that it seemed unlikely that some of these practices would ever begin to budge, despite how it can still seem unlikely now. Robert Redford and the many people around him, wealthy as they were, fully capable of not bothering with this, put their whole weight behind it.

And as always with institutions like these, while at the time to many people it sounded like a novelty piece, something that wouldn’t grow or last. Now, after 47 years of work, it is entirely unquestioned, treated as though something of the sort was always bound to happen.

Independent film making is not an easy thing to make your life’s work, and the larger industry it’s a part of still treats it as a fringe. But where it is, with initiatives like Sundance, the broader availability of camera equipment and yes, even the internet, is miles ahead of where it once was.

Change is happening all around us, it is frenetic, nauseating and loud, but do not let anyone delude you that it is all bad.

So turn up!

VIP Patron Pass

€555.00

 SUPPORT US! 
 
 WATCH EPISODE 4 NOW 

Please follow our podcast on YouTube and Spotify!

 

XTANT, Calle Sanchez Pacheco 47, Callejon Local 1, Madrid, 28002, Spain

Unsubscribe