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XTANT NOMAD 2026

Photo of Natalia Płonka

 

Miscellaneous | 20.04.26

Sights and smells.

While XTANT emerged from a deep-seated love for heritage textiles, they are not the only form of craft represented in our community; through the years, interior designers, visual artists, directors, musicians, and many other talented people of varying disciplines have crowded the halls of our annual fair.

Craft, as interconnected as it has always been, cannot help but bring together with these tangentially related worlds. From carpet making and embroidery to interior design, from tapestry to illustration, and, across several versions of XTANT and our own personal work, from almost every other craft to perfumery.

Arquinesia, Love and stones, Viti Vinci and, for this year’s edition of XTANT, Natalia Płonka’s: Spiritus Loci: The Olfactory Soul of Warmia.

Photo of Natalia Płonka

 

The project, divided into three fragrances, digs deep into small pockets of the polish countryside. Taking from their surroundings the earth, bark, resin, mist, moss, fauna, and flora of these regions, to create a striking, if slightly blurry, impression of their mother regions.

Perfumery, like fashion, is yet another industry that showed the inability to neatly apply industrial production onto craft and art. Companies which sought to sell their fragrances at scale, could not in turn afford to anchor their materials and sources in any one place, and so had to instead create a standardised palette of synthetic smells, which could be replicated anywhere. It’s only after that point, that a designer could play around with ‘creativity’.

But any artist will tell you that choosing the materials decides half of the piece. And so by making the materials with which we work general lab made concepts like: ‘rose scented’, ‘citrusy’, ‘candy-like’, rather than actual specific smells ‘this kind of rose’ ‘the citrus tree by that garden’ ‘the candy of this region’, we strip them of context and limit the amount of different fragrances we can make.

On the other hand, to pick from one of the three fragrances, a scent that belongs exclusively to the early-morning riverbank of a northwestern polish town; made in-part from the items and nature you’d find foraging there, has a definite story and is not something you could copy, even with all the syrups and extracts in the world at your disposal.

 As we constantly talk about in textiles as well: the collection, processing and finishing of the fibres that designers use is a whole other separate artform.

Photo by Natalia Płonka

 

XTANT’s Team has already landed back in Mallorca and, as we begin to prepare the floor grounds, confirm product line-ups, and organise their locations, an interwoven map of all the different artists and their far-flung places of origins begins to take shape.

A good part of why we were so enchanted by the palace of Can Vivot, was how it resembled the ancient markets of preindustrial times. Places where textiles, incense, goods, and perfumes from all over the globe were, due to the times, representative of the environment and culture in which they were made. In these old mediterranean buildings of Venice, Sicily, and Mallorca visitors would see merchants trade artwork unlike anything painted in their own countries, showcase pottery from three thousand kilometres away, and smell scents that were rare and unrecognisable to the average mallorquin. 

So while we’re very happy to live in the modern world, with all of the conveniences afforded to it by industry, we hope to bring with XTANT a new version of those old markets to life.

Somewhere where perfumes, tapestries, clothes, and art installations alike gather from all over the world with their wide range of raw materials and techniques placed front and centre, rather than as different varying combinations of the same few synthetic processes.

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Photo of Natalia Płonka

 

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XTANT, Calle Sanchez Pacheco 47, Callejon Local 1, Madrid, 28002, Spain

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